Penelope Cruz greets you at the bus station; Spike Lee (well, his handprints) follows your inquisitive steps to the festival Auditorium; an (almost) lifesize carton cut-out of Charlie's Angels invites you to add your starstruck head to the gang (probably your only chance to get Cameron Diaz's body). A row of cinematic (and super-tiny) hangouts await on your climb up bustling Rue du Suquet. A golden sand dresses up the Croisette, where you can chill in the shadow of a star-studded line of hotels - or, frankly, agonize over your own debt.
Impressionable visitor, beware: The charm of Cannes, thankfully, lies further than the self-indulgent Chanel windows and the imposing facade of the Miramar. Just a couple of streets up lies the life backstage, the flip-side of the big-screen drama - the cheap fashion finds, the yummy Turkish kebab, the lazy pedwalk life. The city luckily safeguards a generous piece (the most interesting one) of its world-renowned territory to the accessible and the unassuming.
It's that fragile equilibrium between the infuriatingly exclusive and the gracefully inclusive that welcomes the visitor to take a plunge - you, Angelina Jolie, Jewish prayer groups (we saw that last one too). Take a seat on one of those kitsch Croisette chairs, with your back to the Carlton, and suck up the French jemenfoutisme. Bon apetit.
Soundtrack: La Valse des Monstres by Yann Tiersen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4wUNdeKcLc
| Cannes beach: The true Palms d' Or | 
| Palms in and out the festival Auditorium | 
| The decadent Cannes gare | 
| Miles goes Rue du Suquet | 
| Classic Cannes | 
| Beaching | 
| La Favela | 
| The glam of kitsch at the Croisette | 
| Quench your thirst any time of day at Le 6 Croisette | 
| And the drag award goes to... | 
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