From opulent 19th century settings fit for a tsar, to Gogol-inspired menus for the literary bohemian, the St Petersburg restaurant scene has blossomed in quality and number in the last few years. The Culture Trip has picked ten restaurants in Russia’s top cultural city that infuse Russian cuisine with creativity, imagination and fine flavours.
Gastronomic opulence
Palkin
It
is worth splurging for a true taste of tsarist-era Russia in an opulent
setting with over 220 years of tradition. Palkin takes its decor and
its food very seriously. From the top-end black caviar and the Kamchatka
crab meat, to the flambé of fresh berries and vin blanc, there’s a long
list of Russian delicacies and wines to satisfy even the most demanding
connoisseurs. The waiting staff has charmed art and literary royalty
alike by their professional service, including old regulars Tchaikovsky
and Dostoyevsky. This is Russian savoir vivre in all its glory.
Meat lover's paradise
Stroganoff
Meat
lovers better head straight to Stroganoff for a selection of imported
meats from Australia, Argentina and New Zealand, courtesy of a
steakhouse that prides itself in being the only one in Russia to invest
in dry ageing and hand butchering cuts. There’s also a selection of
imported beers, liquors and wines from the restaurant’s cellar, like
Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux that will ideally complement your
lamb. Framed old horseshoes (found during the reconstruction) and
pre-Revolution pictures give a taste of history on the walls, warmed up
by the light music and dim lights.
Delicious peeks Backstage
Za Tsenoi
The
place to be for dance and theatre lovers alike, given its place
practically next door to the Mariinsky Theatre, Za Tsenoi (which means
Backstage) livens up daily with after-show chatter. Anna Pavlova herself
once danced on those floorboards, taken from the old Mariinsky stage
and, more recently, tenor Placido Domingo autographed one of its
windows. An old piano, theatre costumes, imposing statues and candelabra
complement this decisively dramatic backdrop befitting the French and
Russian fusion cuisine of crème lobster soup with cognac, grilled salmon
with caviar sauce and beluga fillet with mushrooms. Make sure to book
ahead, and hopefully you will get a window seat that offers generous
views of the Kryukov Canal.
18/10, Teatralnaya Pl., Admiralteisky, St. Petersburg, + 7 (812) 327-05-21.
Old recipes, new interpretations
Chekhov
Οn
its website, Chekhov restaurant claims that this is the place to hold a
philosophical discussion about the destination of man, as well as
something as common as the weather. A rustic 19th century ambiance meets
a 21st century reinterpretation of old Russian recipes: Fiery red
borsch, chicken Kiev, baked whitefish and cabbage pies, with the sweet
scent of homemade cherry Nalivka floating in the air. A white piano, an
antique gramophone and oak furniture complete Chekhov’s warm country
house looks, while on a good day there’s live bird-singing going in the
terrace. Indeed, there’s nobody here that doesn’t feel welcome.
Inspired flavours of a writer’s apartment
Gogol
A
cosy writer’s apartment that seems to come straight out of the books of
Nikolai Gogol combined with a menu filled with home-style Russian
recipes, this is the winning combination of Gogol, a decidedly
literature-loving restaurant. Choosing freely between the dining room,
the sitting room, the reception and the study, guests will be treated to
a proper gastronomic voyage back in time. A gourmet himself, Nikolai
Gogol would have been spoilt for choice, between Siberian whitefish and
hand made pelmeni and vareniki (Russian dumplings), local farmer’s
beef-a-la-Stroganoff and magret de canard, to name just a few of the
menu’s many delights.
Crafty Armenian cuisine
Erivan
St
Petersburg also offers an array of regional food options like Special
Project Erivan. Dedicated not only to regional Armenian cuisine, but
also to the talent of Armenian craftsmen, the restaurant features
handmade carpets, clay utensils, stained glass and napkin holders made
by locals. On the kitchen front, recipes like Kufta (‘veal sirloin
specially brought from Armenia, hand-ground with stones and shaped as a
sphere before serving’), beef brains with olive oil and drunken chicken
are washed down with Armenian cognacs and a “geographical map” of wine
flavours, from Chile to South Africa. According to Erivan’s own words,
‘the cook here does not just cook, but performs a religious rite’.
Intoxicating Russian know-how
Russian Vodka Room No1
Vodka fans, unite. This is the place where you can taste 213 different kinds of vodka (hopefully not all at once) and visit the Vodka Museum between courses. Housed in a 15th century Russian Monastery, the museum introduces visitors to the ways the monks distilled their first alcohol as well as the ins and outs of local drinking traditions in the St Petersburg. The interior is relaxed and friendly, but the arched ceilings and spacious lounges give your visit a sense of grandeur - if the all vodka tasting hasn’t done it already!
4, Konnogvardeyiski boulevard, Saint-Petersburg, +7 (812) 570-64-20,+7 (921) 945-08-90.
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Literary gourmet
Feodor Dostoevsky
Part
of the gorgeous Golden Garden boutique hotel in the historical centre
of the city, Dostoevsky harkens back to 19th century St Petersburg
hospitality - in both taste and style. Gourmet Russian and European
recipes are inspired by Dostoevsky’s full list of works. A choice of
Italian, French and other wines, champagne and aperitifs complement
elegant dishes that, predictably, don’t come cheap. The awe of the
surrounding building though, located in a spot where the great writer
lived and worked between 1842-45, is itself a treat.
Tasteful Georgian elegance
Tarkhun
Traditional
Georgian flavours paired with an understated ivory modern decor, and a
terrace for the summer, makes a visit to Tarkhun special. Stuffed
breads, salads, Lobio (a bean recipe), chicken shashlik and grilled lamb
chops with wonderfully aromatic herbs give you a memorable experience
of the flavours of the Caucasus; there’s also deliciously moreish flat
cheese bread and poppy seed cake that won’t disappoint the kids. Tarkhun
translates to tarragon, which you will discover in the housemade vodka
and lemonade - just ask the knowledgeable staff and they will be happy
to let you in on their precious local gastro-secrets.
Small menu, big delights
Levin
An
underground little hideaway with a small menu, Levin packs in enough
taste and charm to make up for its lack of luxury. You will probably
meet local people here for lunch, as they tend to go home for dinner,
when more inquisitive international visitors pop in for an intimate
meal. Friendly English-speaking staff serve dishes with equally friendly
prices - Belarusian veraniki, rabbit Stroganoff, borsch, draniki
(potato pancakes) with mushroom caviar and sour cream, blini with honey
and blueberries all evoke memories of home.
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By Danai Molocha
Images courtesy: 1: Sahmeditor/Wiki Commons. 2: Pittaya Sroilong/Wiki Commons. 3: Roger4336. 4: Kagor/Wiki Commons. 5: Bernd Hutschenreuther/Wiki Commons. 6: Erivan. 7: Veikia/Wiki Commons. 8: Feodor Dostoevsky. 9: Les/Wiki Commons. 10: Levin.
